CHABLIS: KING OF WHITE WINES

Chablis is widely regarded as the king of French white wine – a special drink that commands a far higher price than many other types. Find out what gives it its unique, and expensive, flavour.

Most experts are convinced that it is the peculiar and highly individual mixture of chalky limestone and clay of the Chablis area that accounts for the fact that the chardonnay wines produced there are quite different to those produced anywhere else in the world. The Chablis region was first wined back in the 500s. A monastery was built there and invading Romans brought along wine wherever they went. When Charlemagne set up a base there, it was very important that wine be offered to visiting guests.

Located 160km north of the main portion of the Burgundy region of France, Chablis is now regarded as the region that produces the most perfect example of a dry white table wine. Unlike most chardonnays, the traditional terms for describing the taste of Chablis are flinty and steely. This does not mean that the wine actually has metallic qualities. Rather, these terms refer to the wine’s dryness – a fresh, crisp, almost tart but clean dryness that serves as a surface coating through which one can easily perceive the underlying fruit of the chardonnay grape.

At the same time, the very best Chablis has a richness that makes it a virtual king among the world’s foremost white wines. With a bouquet of freshly cut hay, apples and an underlying mineral note, the best Chablis wines are light gold in colour, with glints of green when they are young. As they age, they become darker and glossier. More than any other white wine from Burgundy, Chablis benefits from bottle age.

Chablis has been going through a planting bloom in the past century. In 1955, there were only 1,360 acres planted with vines. In modern times, that number is closer to 12,000 acres. The secret of Chablis wine lies deep in the soil. Prehistoric fossilised oyster shells and harsh gravelly ground create seemingly harsh conditions for growth, yet this blending of limestone, minerals and shells contribute to Chablis’ uniqueness.

The four appellations of Chablis are based on the type of land the vines are grown on. Petit Chablis is from hilltop vineyards and north-facing slopes. The subsoil is hard Portlandian limestone. Petit Chablis is generally thin and acidic, except in hot years.

Village Chablis can be delightful, crisp and refined. It is fine for it to be steely, but it should not be mean. Look out for vieilles vignes – old vine; which are usually a cut above the rest. Soils are Jurassic era limestone, mostly Kimmeridgian.

Premier Cru is the third appellation. Though there are 40 Premier Cru vineyards, in reality about 12 names appear on labels. Fourchaume and Montée de Tonnerre are the most reputed and the most similar to the Grand Crus. Beauroy, Vaillons and Montmains are several good ones that you’ll come across quite often. In hot years they can be quite exotic. Vau de Vey and Vau Ligneau are two relatively new crus. All these wines can be lovely, some ageing capacity, but drinkable young.

Finally, there are the Grands Crus. There are seven of these, capable of giving quite outstanding wines. They age beautifully. Vaudésir and Les Clos are reputed to be the most serious, Les Preuses and Valmur are high on the slope, and Bougros and Grenouilles are low and sometimes described as ripe, full or easier. Blancot completes the list.

Wines from all of these categories can be excellent and it should be remembered that genuine Chablis should be bought only if it comes from France. Some California and New York wineries continue the somewhat doubtful practice of calling their wines Chablis but these are merely inferior copies, some of which do not even contain chardonnay grapes.

If you want the real Chablis it’s got to be French, and most certainly from a bottle and never from a cask. Enjoy it as the perfect accompaniment to chicken, pheasant, quail, turkey and any kind of fish, lobster, clams, oysters and crab.